Periodicity

  • As needed.

Materials Needed

  • 8 (or maybe 6) eye thimbles 1/4 inch https://www.sailrite.com/Thimble-Solid-Stainless-Steel-for-Wire-to-1-4
  • Ordered from https://dutchwaregear.com/
  • 278 feet of 1/4 Amsteel® Blue (by the Foot) - Silver
  • (6) 1/8 Amsteel® Blue (25 Feet) - Silver

Procedure Overview

  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GP_3nJpcnk
  • At the fixed end, and eye splice that is big enough to ring hitch (cow hitch, tag hitch = all the same) to the stanchion.
  • At the adjustable end, eye splice around a stainless steel thimble (which might take some practice), that is lashed to the stanchion.
  • The length once spliced should end about 5”-6” from the stanchion.
    • The gap because the Dyneema has constructional stretch that need to get worked out.
    • Note that once you set the fixed end in place and measure the other end for the eye splice/thimble, that eye splice will shorten the end result by a couple inches. So when you measure where to make the eye splice, make it about 2” longer – otherwise, if you mark it for 6” and then splice it will end up being an 8” gap that is a bit much. For the gates… Problem is, usually, that the length is to short to put an eye splice at each end. The bury portions would overlap. Instead, there are 2 options. You can splice a loop that goes through the stanchion and the gate hook. If you do this, make the hook adjustment as long as possible for the loop because it will have some initial stretch. Or you can do an eye splice to the upper gate hook, then to the upper stanchion, down to the lower part, and then secure with eye splice to the lower gate hook.

Eye Splice (Mobius Brummel Splice)

  • 72 x rope diameter.
  • For 1/4”, this is 18 inches.
    • Note that this is the amount to bury, need to add a little for the eye itself.
  • Measure back 18 inches and push end through the middle using fid. Eye Splice part 1
  • Now the non-bitter end needs to pass through the bitter end, if the line is long, this is not practical.
    • Put two objects (ideally fids) through where the long line should go through. Make the hole really big.
    • Pass the bitter end back through that hole. Eye Splice 2
      • Pull the bitter end all the way through. This puts a twist in the line.
    • Now pass the loop through the hole. This will undo the twist from the previous step.
  • Bury the tail by running the line through with a fid beyond the length of the tail.
    • Measure how much line you can get too and divide that length by twelve.
    • Put a fid through the tail so that it doesn’t get sucked back into the outer line.
    • At every 1/12th interval, pull out one of the 12 strands.
    • Cut all of the strands pulled out in the previous step and milk the line over the tapered end.

      Thimble splice

      Thimble Splice

  • Similar to eye splice above.
  • Before burying, be sure to install the thimble and tighten the splice.
  • The goal is for the thimble to be 5”-6” from the loop on the stanchion. Much less than that and there is no room for stretch, much more than that looks bad.

Turnbuckle

  • Attach starting end of 1/8” dyneema to the eye thimble using a modified bunt-line (also called e-star) hitch.
    1. Over the top.
    2. Bring the tail over from the left side Buntline Hitch 1
    3. Wrap it all the way around to make a loop. Buntline Hitch 2
    4. Pass through the big loop and under itself Buntline Hitch 3
      • This makes a second loop. Buntline Hitch 4
    5. That’s the end of the bunt-line hitch.
    6. Take the line back through the eye splice and pass it through both of the loops made above.
    7. Pull it tight.
  • 4-6 wraps.
  • Total length desired is 5”-6” (this should be done when adding the thimble splice above.
  • Finish off with a series of several half-hitches (6?).
  • Then just tuck the tail in between the 4-6 wraps.